Six tables and a recipe book
In 1998 this was a taqueria with six tables, one griddle and Abuela Rosa’s handwritten notebook. The notebook is still in the kitchen.
Fourteen of the dishes on the menu came out of that book, unchanged. The mole negro takes twenty-two ingredients and six hours, and the only reason we still make it that way is that Rosa would notice if we did not.
Her daughter runs the kitchen now and her grandson runs the front. Twenty-seven years in, most of the people who walk in on a Sunday have been walking in on Sundays for a while.
Whether it is a quick lunch or something worth celebrating, we want the plate to taste like a Sunday afternoon in Oaxaca.